Hot Water Dreams

I recently spent part of an overseas vacation engaging in a passive aggressive electronic exchange with Airbnb. What I originally imagined would be a relaxing, enjoyable pilgrimage back to the U.S. had turned into a first-world nightmare. The space in question was great; it was cozy, relatively private, and located in a safe, wealthy-looking neighborhood. The issue was the hot water in the shower lasted a mere sixty seconds per day. 

I raised the issue with the host, naively believing that this must be some kind of mistake. The second time I asked her about it, she told me that Southern California was under a drought advisory and that “we take short showers.”

 By this time, I had endured three days of showers that started semi-hot, then quickly cooled to the colder side of lukewarm by the time I reached for the bar of soap. In the grand scheme of things, it was a minor inconvenience, just uncomfortable enough to make me miserable. Of all the uncomfortable scenarios I had imagined could manifest during this trip, lack of hot water was not one of them. Plus, hadn’t my host implied that hot water was deliberately being throttled as a forcing mechanism to save on her water bill, at my expense? Had I actually paid her for that privilege?

As I fantasized about letting the “hot” water run for hours and googled the implied warranty of habitability to make sure that I wasn’t going off the reservation, I leaned back in bed with my half-washed hair and did the only thing I could do: I binge watched Hoarders to feel less alone in my lack of baseline utilities.

Hoarders, as always, delivered. My irritation gave way to a grudging admission that at least I had a functioning toilet. But while I normally used the show to redefine the words “cluttered” and “messy,” a woman clinging to impossible dreams caught my attention. Adamant about completing her late husband’s spacious dream home, she had instead filled it up as if to protect herself from the reality of the task and the inevitability of failure. Life and loved ones had made clear that this wasn’t a path that would lead to any kind of happiness, but she refused to accept that fact.

“That dream is the only thing I have,” she said at one point.

“But that’s what life is,” Dr. Tompkins said, “accepting the loss of things that could be.”

When I planned this trip, a stateside visit for the first time in three years, I’d imagined that coming back would feel like home. It’s the only place I could feel normal, I’d claimed, and I had no doubt that the transition from Tokyo to L.A., San Diego, and San Francisco, would be seamless. I’d feel comfortable because, if not for immigration laws, the U.S. was where I was supposed to be. It was where I was supposed to thrive.

Or, so I told myself as I looked fruitlessly for jobs, life, friends, and partners in Japan. I imagined that life stateside would be normal, that my ability to communicate in the same language and understand cultural norms would gift me with some measure of, if not success, contentment. I conjured up an imaginary life where, on balance, things were generally pretty good, a far contrast from the mild discomfort I experienced every day in Tokyo.

Two weeks and several cold showers later, I’ve discovered how uncomfortable things can be here. After three years away, I’d assumed that I’d arrive stateside with blinders and rose-colored glasses strong enough to mask all of the imperfections I’d encounter. Instead – blame it on the cold showers or the piles of human feces on San Francisco sidewalks – I found myself a little less enthused, a little more conscious of the fantastic nature of my imagined stateside life. While I’m currently better equipped to handle emotional discomfort and hurt, would I have arrived at this place in my life without being anchored in Tokyo? Even if everything had gone according to the plan I’d set out for myself, would I have ended up happy? Or would the ease of living where I’m most comfortable only have served to perpetuate bad emotional habits? 

Previously, I would have said that it would all have been positive, because everything in my life in Tokyo had been the opposite. I felt stuck, and therefore, increasingly left behind by my peers who weren’t encumbered by a foreign nationality. Declaring that it was due to being legally tethered to Japan was a coping mechanism; a way to tell myself that there was hope for me somewhere. That I wouldn’t have been a failure everywhere.

But after a pandemic and some extensive therapy, even that definition of myself seems to have worn itself out. The reality is that I’m only a failure according to the dreams I’d set out for myself years ago, when I was decidedly less informed about my own happiness. It’s true, and maybe always will be, that life would be easier for me stateside. But for the first time since I’ve moved back to Japan, I accepted that happiness isn’t confined to specific locations and that clinging to a stateside dream hasn’t made me any happier. That maybe I don’t need to be somewhere to be happy.

That said, once I landed in Tokyo, I questioned whether these thoughts had been fueled by the generously potent legal cannabis in California. There’s comfort and familiarity with staying in the past, to keep identifying with dreams on life support. But like that lady on hoarders who built walls of stuff around her to keep an expired dream alive, the past can ruin any chance of happiness in the present.

I’m ready to let go. But not, you know, of hot water in paid accommodations.

Man Down in Miyazaki

“So, say you’re an omnipotent superhero,” he started, “and Country A and Country B launch nukes at each other. You throw those nukes into orbit so they don’t hit anything, but you can still use them. How would you punish Country A and Country B?”

 “Well, why do they hate each other?” I said.

 “Does it matter? They just do.”

 “Well, yeah, it does. If it’s based on race or religion, I’d make it so people in Country A and Country B couldn’t tell someone’s race or religion,” I said.

 “Look,” he said, the way people do when you tell them you’d save the bulk of a hypothetical $10 million lottery win, as if that’s not a completely reasonable answer, “I know you’re a good person, but you have to punish these people.”

 “Mmm,” I said, around a mouthful of fries, “okay.”

 He looked at me, waiting for a response.

 “I’m thinking,” I said, to buy some more time to absorb my incredulity at being described as a good person. Like someone caught red-handed trying to pass off the suspicious conduct as casual and definitely not what it actually is, I feigned deep thought as I mentally tucked away the answer to the question of how fast I would have sold him out earlier in the day, had we gotten in trouble.

 That particular conversation had taken place in a McDonald’s in Miyazaki after well-laid travel plans had unraveled into another misadventure. Our initial itinerary had us out of the hotel in Kumamoto by 8 a.m. and at  Takachiho Gorge by 9 a.m., where the boat rentals started at 8:30. We’d then planned to covertly fly Jwizzle’s drone through the gorge before driving down to Hyuga to see the Sea-Cross, Ryugo Udo Shrine, and Umagase.

The path to Takachiho Gorge.

The path to Takachiho Gorge.

Takachiho Gorge.

Takachiho Gorge.

View from the boat dock.

View from the boat dock.

 We’d arrived just past 8:30 a.m., which meant that we had to park in a second parking lot farther away from the gorge. From that parking lot, there’s a 10-minute scenic walk through the gorge which was largely empty when we wandered through. Despite arriving at the boat dock around 8:45 a.m., there was already a 60-meter long line for the boats. We were able to get a reservation with an hour-long wait. As we browsed the gift shop in the meantime, the lady behind the counter told us that the boat rentals had been closed all summer due to heavy rain. The timing of our visit was apparently fortuitous.

 An hour later, we were on a rowboat with a thirty-minute time limit. We struggle-rowed through the relatively narrow gorge as I quickly discovered that actually rowing a boat is not nearly as easy as operating a rowing machine. With approximately twelve boats in the water at once, there was a lot of gentle bumping and jostling in the water, all of us awkwardly yet politely trying to navigate towards a good spot for a unique photograph. As we neared the waterfall, I contorted myself into different positions to take the kind of pictures that are the métier of unappreciated boyfriends of Instagram-famous women. I hit the shutter button as a ray of sunlight lit the base of the waterfall and felt a surge of validation and pride. It was met with a tepid response.

View from the bridge at Takachiho Gorge.

View from the bridge at Takachiho Gorge.

 Approximately 500 pictures later, we hustled back to shore, returned our life vests and climbed back towards the road overlooking the gorge. There, we found a brief stretch of asphalt where Jwizzle could discreetly launch his drone; as he manipulated the console, I stood by casually, shielding eyes from what we were actually doing and stealing glances at his phone screen.

 And then we dropped the drone.

 Jwizzle’s phone screen suddenly went blank and a brief second later, his drone had decided to descend onto a rock approximately 20 meters away from the waterfall. In a panic, he shoved his dead phone at me and took off running. I lost him at a fork in the road and accidentally headed towards the parking lot. 15 minutes later, finding an empty car, I weaved my way back through an increasingly dense crowd of Chinese tourists and found him agitated yet slightly relieved. The drone wasn’t in the water, but we’d have to get on a boat to get it back. I was sweating profusely.

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 By the time we signed up for another boat, it was already late morning and there was a 2.5 hour wait time. We killed time by losing each other again, necessitating yet another trip through the gorge to the parking lot and back. I offered to claim ownership of the drone and ask the boat operators to recover it, but that was quickly rejected. We waited near the boat dock, anxious, when a boat operator suddenly took off through the gorge on a motor boat. He came back a few minutes later with the damp drone, which we finally claimed before hauling ass out of the area.

 With a key member of our team drying (and possibly, dying) in the back seat, we headed east towards Hyuga. Our first stop was the Ryugo Udo Shrine which required getting lost (again) through a winding, wooded path that climbed up before descending down towards the shore. As we neared the mouth of the cave where Ryugo Udo Shrine is located, a sign loudly cautioned us that the path would be steep. We confirmed the veracity of that statement upon arriving at the last ten steps to the cave, which consisted of a pile of wet rocks that vaguely resembled stairs.

Heading down to Ryugo Udo Shrine.

Heading down to Ryugo Udo Shrine.

Ryugo Udo shrine from the outside.

Ryugo Udo shrine from the outside.

Ryugo Udo Shrine from inside the cave.

Ryugo Udo Shrine from inside the cave.

 Still, we managed to make it down to a gorgeous view. They say you can see a dragon rising if you look out towards the mouth of the cave from the shrine. I apparently lacked the imagination to see that particular beast, but it definitely paralleled my mental image of the empty sack that was my shrunken stomach.

 Having foolishly decided that this was the day to break my addiction to Coke, I’d subsisted on water and mints for the past 6 hours. After the delay due a dropped drone, we were in a rush to get to Hyuga before the sun set. We scrambled out of the cave where Ryugo Udo Shrine is located and a short drive took us to the Sea Cross, a cross-shaped coastal inlet. It’s a naturally occurring seascape that’s impressive on its own, but someone clever in the tourism industry apparently also noticed that the inlet can look like the Japanese character for 叶う, which means when something, like a wish or desire, has been granted. To add to the hyped romanticism of the locale, there’s a large bell that’s been installed where one – or more probably, couples – can make their wishes. Jwizzle clanged it loudly and unceremoniously and my plea for chicken nuggets apparently went unheard.

The Sea Cross.

The Sea Cross.

 At this point, I had no idea where we were headed next. We were on the eastern edge of Miyazaki, traveling along wooded roads devoid of convenience stores or any other source of nourishment. A short drive from the Sea Cross took us to Umagase, where we could see the vertical rock formations of the cliffs reach out towards the sea. We followed the signs to two viewpoints, the last which took us down to a point overlooking the shore where we peered over the edge and watched the waves crash against the rocks. The view was incredible. I thought of meringue and Mallomars.

Umagase cliffs.

Umagase cliffs.

Umagase viewpoint.

Umagase viewpoint.

Cape Hyuga.

Cape Hyuga.

Path up from the viewpoint.

Path up from the viewpoint.

 A couple hours later, I learned there was a god as Jwizzle pulled into a McDonald’s and we ordered and inhaled 2,000 yen worth of food. I would regret it later as we watched South Africa beat Japan in the Rugby World Cup and the McDonald’s burps would plague me until, exhausted, we pulled into a service area to sleep for a few hours before finally making it back to the hotel. Once horizontal, I had a second to muse over the fact that Jwizzle somehow believed screwing with two entire country’s worth of people’s psychology wasn’t a punishment, and fell fast asleep.

 

TL;DR – I Just Want Travel Tips Section

-       Get to Takachiho early. We arrived at 8:45 and still had to wait an hour; by late morning the boat rentals were done for the day and there was a 3+ hour wait. You can check the status of boat rentals here. If there’s been a stretch of heavy rain or bad weather, the boat rentals may not be available when you visit.

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-       Cape Hyuga (where the Sea Cross, Umagase, and Ryugo Udo Shrine are located) was relatively deserted when we went, but they’re worth a visit. You’ll want to rent a car to get to these spots.

Mt. Fuji is No Basic Bitch, or, How I Didn't Pee for 15 Hours

It is 3 a.m. and I am on a 45-degree slope that has lasted approximately five hours and won’t end. My thighs are wrung out and heavy. I have miraculously not yet lost my shit. Nor have I peed in the last five hours. I eventually will hold it in for a further ten.

That morning, the plan had been  to climb Mt. Fuji via the Gotemba trial on the southeast side of the mountain. It’s the longest route to the top, with the trailhead located at 1400 meters above sea level, and it’s also the least popular. The ascent has been described as a “gentle” slope, which seemed more reassuring given that we would be climbing in the off-season, when the mountain and all the huts along the way are officially closed. With an unseasonably warm weekend coming up, it was our last chance to climb to the summit this year. Suddenly I was packing a bag with borrowed gear and pulling out my base layers. Because, how bad could it really be?

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According to my parents, I was going to die. “Rocks will come flying at you,” my mother said. I wasn’t sure what that meant. “Bring your bike helmet,” she insisted.

This contradicted what I’d heard of Mt. Fuji: essentially, that it’s the basic bitch of mountains. Mt. Fuji is accessible enough from Tokyo to have become a tourist attraction; a heavily Instagram-ed, bucket list item that appears to be easily conquered by the “reasonably fit.” Online, the climb is described as a boring, non-technical ascent, almost like it could be done with a bottle of water and yoga pants.

That characterization is misleading. Temperatures at the summit can fall to below freezing, which is a terrifying concept if you’re the type of person who considers anything below 24C, “cold.” I layered almost every cold-weather item I had from commuting to law school on a bike through Boston winters, and borrowed an Arc’teryx coat from my mother. I looked like I was prepared to climb Everest. Come what may, I was at least dressed to survive.

Unfortunately, although I had realized that I could freeze to death, I failed to take into account several factors, such as the route being largely unmarked, the length of the trail, and the large elevation gain. We started our climb from the Gotemba fifth station at around 10:30 p.m., two hours later than planned, but figured we’d make good time on the trail.

“It better not be like this all the way up,” Jwizzle joked within the first half hour. I’d laughed in response. We would eat those words.

View from near the 8th station.

View from near the 8th station.

 With one headlight between us and no trail markers, we would later learn that we’d veered off the trail onto a path for whatever tanks they use to climb the side of mountains. After an hour, we were climbing a 45-degree slope. After another three hours, the soft, volcanic sand had sucked the strength out of my legs. On a much-needed break, I sat back and stared at the stars, which speckled the sky in varying degrees of brightness, like how I imagine my skin looks if examined under those skin analysis machines that show you exactly how shitty your complexion is. I kinda needed to pee.

The thing is, we were essentially in Mordor. There is no cover on Mt Fuji. It’s a barren landscape of volcanic ash and the occasional rock that is no bigger than a medium-sized dog. Ascended in the dark, every marker pole becomes a promise of some sort of turning point, before reality sets in and it breaks your soul. And then there’s the dust. Frodo may have been traveling with an anorexic suffering from a personality disorder, but at least he didn’t have volcanic ash blowing into his face the entire way.

By the time I started questioning whether I was going to get black lung, turning back wasn’t an option. We were still battling towards the 8th station when the sun came up, stretching its rays across the lakes below. The light gave me a little boost of hope and optimism. It lasted about five minutes before my legs were back to screaming and I was deliriously chanting the chorus to Joe Dassin’s “Les Champs-Elysees” in my head.

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Luckily, whatever path we were on intersected the real trail near the 8th station. The landscape changed from Mordor to Mars, the soft sand turning into large volcanic rocks and puddles of pebbles, the trail now a sadistic scribble of switchbacks. I heaved myself over unstable rocks, running on fumes and determination. That French chorus quickly became my only companion as I started to seriously lag behind. Every few switchbacks, I could see Jwizzle waiting for me to catch up.  

“You don’t have to wait,” I gasped unconvincingly, “I’ll be fine.”

It only dawned on me later that he was most likely waiting because he didn’t want a dead body – or the responsibility of being associated with one found on the side of a mountain – impeding his descent. At this point, although there were large enough rocks to sneak behind to pee, we started to see other hikers, both above and below us. This was enough of a deterrent; the last thing I wanted to do was to subject several Japanese mountain climbers to the sight of my bare butt. It was also cold. Cold enough that I didn’t know if I’d be able to warm up again if I exposed more than my face to the elements. I checked in with my bladder and reassessed my priorities. Peeing could wait.

We reached the summit a long, hard five hours after arriving at the 8th station. Near the rim of that volcanic crater, we ate a snack and I curled up against my backpack. I closed my eyes ready to jump into unconsciousness, fully aware that this is most likely how people die of exposure and/or freeze to death. I wondered where the helicopter would land to pick up my dead body.  

The Torii gate at the summit.

The Torii gate at the summit.

I felt a small pang in my gut and I opened my eyes. I was okay with the embarrassment of dying on the side of a mountain, but the idea of being found dead in a puddle of my own urine roused me from any chance of sleep/death. Because if I had to go, I’d strongly prefer it wasn’t with a full bladder. I drummed my fists against my dead thighs and prepared to get off the mountain.

Since we had wandered down the scenic route, it had taken us a total of twelve hours to climb to the top. It would take us a laughably easy three to descent. Once we scrambled down the web of switchbacks, the rest of the route is made of deep, soft volcanic sand that’s referred to as “the sand slide.” We were able to almost jog down, the sand cushioning the impact you’d usually feel on the walk down a mountainside. Back at the trailhead, I made a beeline for a bathroom that smelled like a damp corner of Paris in the summer. It was probably worse than the alternative, but at least I didn’t have to worry about volcanic sand getting into my underwear.

dirty feet.jpeg

 A couple hours later, I emptied about four tablespoons of ash and small rocks from my shoes into a hotel trashcan. After a shower I only got out of so I could lie down, I dozed off to Japan stunning the world by beating Ireland in the Rugby World Cup, and dreamed of toilets.

 [Some of the photographs in this post were taken with an expired disposable film camera.]

48 Hours in San Francisco - 2019 Edition

Day 1.

Get up around 9am to meet my best friend J for the first time in five years. Obviously, the first brunch place is Tartine Bakery, where we split a croque monsieur (okay) and the brioche bread pudding (as amazing as I remember it and I’m not a bread pudding person).

Tartine Bakery.

Tartine Bakery.

The Brioche bread pudding from Tartine Bakery.

The Brioche bread pudding from Tartine Bakery.

Next, head to Craftsman and Wolves for the Rebel Without A Cause, which tastes like a slightly onion-y scone with a runny egg inside. It’s particularly good with the pink salt on the side. We are getting kinda full. I hand off the Conveni stuff I’d bought for J back in Japan. He gives me a pair of coveted Air Jordan 1 Low Slip Chicagos in exchange.

Craftsman and Wolves.

Craftsman and Wolves.

Pastries at Craftsman and Wolves.

Pastries at Craftsman and Wolves.

The Rebel Without a Cause from Craftsman and Wolves.

The Rebel Without a Cause from Craftsman and Wolves.

Egg porn.

Egg porn.

We walk south along Valencia Street and drop by Dog Eared Books to check out their used book section. I get a used copy of “The Sympathizer” by Viet Thanh Nguyen and get a couple recommendations from the guy at the counter.

#hypebeasts.

#hypebeasts.

J shows me Al’s Place, a largely vegetarian restaurant with a Michelin star. We walk to La Taqueria and get tacos (meat for him, vegetarian for me). The guy who rings me up gives me a rose because every woman there gets a rose and compliments along with amazing tacos and burritos. The Jamaica juice (sweetened, bright red, hibiscus tea) is delicious.

Tacos from La Taq.

Tacos from La Taq.

On the way to the CalTrain station, we stop by The Boba Guys because we haven’t exploded yet. J gets the Matcha Strawberry which tastes like strawberry juice, and I get the Dirty Horchata. The bubbles are chewy and delicious and the espresso mellows out the sweet horchata.

Our drinks from The Boba Guys.

Our drinks from The Boba Guys.

We part ways and I have a Whole Foods salad bar dinner because I have some work to do. A vegan carrot cake finishes the day.

Day 2.

I take an Uber to Green Apple Books, but decide I’m too hungry to browse books. I head up a block to Nourish Café and order the Bap Bowl. The vegan sriracha miso dressing is addictive and it has just the right amount of crunch and creaminess. I’ll be thinking about this for days.

Nourish Cafe.

Nourish Cafe.

The Bap bowl at Nourish Cafe.

The Bap bowl at Nourish Cafe.

I head back up to Green Apple Books and raid their used book section. They have an annex three doors down that has all their used fiction, plus a second story in the main store with used nonfiction. I buy as many books as I think I can bring back. I find a copy of a book about Hinault and buy it for the pictures.

hinault 1.jpg
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Back in the Mission district, it’s time for dessert at Garden Creamery, which offers six non-dairy, vegan ice creams. I choose one scoop each of Earl Grey and Dark Chocolate. The Dark Chocolate tastes like the inside of a truffle.

Garden Creamery.

Garden Creamery.

All the flavors.

All the flavors.

The dark chocolate and Earl Grey (vegan) flavors.

The dark chocolate and Earl Grey (vegan) flavors.

I somehow get on the CalTrain that has a weird weekend schedule and have dinner with Bestie and his family. I learn I am not bad at playing with kids. We head to Salt & Straw for more ice cream. J orders a cone with the Wild-Foraged Berry Slab Pie flavor. I get a cup with a scoop of Freckled Mint TCHO-colate Chip and Dandelion Chocolate Hazelnut Cookies & Cream (both vegan!). The coolness of the mint chip balanced out the gooey-sugary-filled-with-cookie-bits Dandelion Chocolate flavor. I go home full of good food and great times and catch a flight back to Tokyo the next morning.

Salt & Straw ice cream.

Salt & Straw ice cream.

I love San Francisco.

Miracle [Dole] Whip

Back when I was around eight years old, my parents took my sister and I to Disney World in Orlando, Florida. As my mother hated rollercoasters, and I wasn’t the kind of child that liked to terrorize myself voluntarily, we avoided all the rides that seemed designed to test the strength of your sphincter in the face of a fabricated yet realistic, life-threatening situation. The spinning teacups were as dangerous as the rides got, and my family was quite happy with that.

We ended our Disney World tour at Tomorrowland. We’d checked off most of the non-rollercoaster rides, and we had one more to check out. We didn’t know what it was, but there was a long, snaking line, seemingly a hundred people deep. We joined the line and waited, wondering what was to come.

I remember a tinge of doubt when I saw a sign that indicated how tall you had to be to ride. As we shuffled closer to the front of the line, we heard screams.

“I think this is a rollercoaster,” I said.

For some reason, we didn’t beg the ride operator to let us out of the line. Or maybe my father thought this would be a good time to teach us an early lesson in commitment. We got on and after what seemed like an eternity of being bounced violently around in a dark planetarium, I got off with PTSD and an understanding of what kind of ride Space Mountain actually is.

Over 20 years later, I’m still cautious about theme parks and rollercoasters. Finding myself on a two-week vacation to Orlando, Florida I turned down Universal Studios for a slightly muddy walk around the Tibet-Butler Preserve and some face time with injured Gopher Tortoises.

gopher tortoise
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But afterwards, I still got a piece of the Magic Kingdom, in a Styrofoam bowl of soft, creamy, sweetly-sour, pineapple Dole Whip.

Originally limited to Disney parks and the Dole Pineapple Plantation in Hawaii, it’s now available at Twistee Treats in Orlando and several other locations around the U.S. It’s a surprisingly vegan soft serve that doesn’t lack in creamy heft – I would have assumed there was some sort of dairy in it if I hadn’t been told otherwise – but light enough to be the kind of thing you’d want to eat all summer.

I am the kind of person who craves and/or fixates on some highly processed candy bar or food item for some indeterminate amount of time. I am also the kind of person who usually forgets about the food I’m craving after, at most, a couple of hours. After my pineapple Dole Whip experience at Island Fin Poke Company, I couldn’t stop thinking about it for over 48 hours. The question, “what do you want to do?” was usually answered with the words, “Dole Whip.”

dole whip 1
dole whip 2

Even after I’d hyped it in my head, my second cup still tasted just as delicious as the first. As I scraped the last smears of Dole Whip from the bottom of a Styrofoam bowl, I said that we should go back and order more. I was only sort of kidding.

That was nearly three days ago, and I’m leaving Orlando, once again, after having made a life-altering discovery.

Time to get more Dole Whip.

Letting Go at Loi Krathong and Yi Peng

By happy coincidence - though Buddhists will tell you that there's no much thing as coincidence - I ended up in Chiang Mai during the Loi Krathong and Yi Peng festivals (the latter overlaps with the former). I released a small float ornamented with orchids, incense, and a candle, into the Ping river in the spirit of Loi Krathong. Then, watched hundreds of floating lanterns be released into the sky. 

It was the most beautiful thing I've ever seen.